Saturday, July 23, 2011

Day 17: Toulon (Le Pradet)

Martine was so inspired by my bike trip she called a friend to see if she could borrow a road bike to do some riding with me. I was so taken with her hospitality I asked to stay with her friend in Grasse for two nights instead of one (she arranged a homestay for me there). The best part of my trip has been the people. I have learned so much from the French!

Meanwhile, we went to the market in Toulon to get olives from the best olive vendor.


This place is family run and has been the family business for years. Their olives are phenomenal, but they are best known for their tapenades with anchovies.



France is much about craft. Even buying fruit Martine was particular about vendor. She has relationships with those that provide her with food. She even gets handmade shoes. This is where the shoemaker operates, but he frequently leaves notes on the door saying "taking a nap" and such. He was not in.



We had a lovely lunch and Martine and I discussed literature, history, and society over expresso. She is a translator so she is very well read. Recommends Jeffery Kessel, a French writer who lived his stories. We also talked racism and immigration in France. It seems some people have the perception that immigrants are abusing the French social system -- where do you draw the line? I'm first imagining the dreadful wall between the US and Mexico, considering the colonial history of European conquest, then wondering how we must reconceptualize boundary (or community) in a postcolonial, globalized world. I think dialogue and compassion play a vital role, and I'm glad to meet people open to discussion. On the subject of America, many people show intrigue for such a fresh country, as if America was a project. I think they hold great hope for the US, and I realize we are all colonizers and immigrants. Perhaps we can own up to our shortcomings, meet the other, and become something better.
After lunch I took a nap.

I headed to the beach for an evening swim. Still very cold and windy, but refreshing to jump in and dry in the sun. Here's a mountain in the distance.



Ate dinner with Martine and Bruno. She cooked a sort of tomato stew with onions, garlic, basil, oregano -- typical Provence. Bruno's after dinner favorite is ice-cream and a movie. We watched Wall Street.



Sad to leave the house, but Nice is waiting.


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