The first 20 miles, Sainte-Maxime to Agay, was very touristy -- amusement parks, ice cream shops, and crowded beaches. Then I hit L'Esterel coast which is a red, rocky, mountainous coastline. The color reminded me of the sand in the Southwest.
Next to the blue Mediterranean waters it was stunning.
There are several coves you can hike down to take a swim, or you can take a boat.
Though it was mountainous the famous coastal road stays near the base, so climbing was not bad. Looking back, I've adjusted to the weight of the fully-loaded bicycle. I push an 18 mph pace on flats, climb out of the saddle, and don't feel exhausted when done.
I had a protein packed lunch (a 1/2 liter bottle of milk, piece of cheese, and a peach) in Theoule-s-Mer before leaving the coast and heading up to Grasse. I'm at the edge of the Alps and Grasse is on a mountain top.
The climb was challenging and I realized the only thing worse than going up a mountain was going down a mountain knowing you'll have to go right back up.
I reached the top (1000 ft) and rang the buzzer for the home I will be staying in the next two nights. It's right by the town center.
Martine's friend Berengere ran out to greet me. She is a doctor in Toulouse but grew up in Grasse and is in town for vacation. The house (more like a mansion) is her mother's and it's been in the family for 6 generations. Their big Catholic family vacations here.
Berengere welcomed me and I immediately met grandma and 5 grandchildren, ages 11-19. After the commotion Berengere cleared the room and sat with me, her daughter, and her mother to talk. We speak a French-English mixture and it's hilarious. She asks "Why?" did I ride across France. Easy answer: "vacation." She says "But why alone? ... That's beautiful."
That is beautiful. My trip is almost over -- it's a 20 mile downhill into Nice -- and I'm sharing it with three generations of women. The fear is gone and what remains is beauty.
We have a rambunctious 4-course dinner prepared by grandma. English and French and excitement were flying. The young girls practice their English words -- yes, please, thank you, cheese. The older cousins argue plans for tomorrow -- beach or river? Berengere participates in all conversation, and grandma runs the show. After dinner we cuddle over three oversized chairs and watch a movie.
You know, my family has French roots. This is where we come from.
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