I earned my polkadots today.
Left Marseille at 9 and started with a climb out of the city over Les Calanques, which are rocky mountains forming cliffs over the sea. Snacked on nuts and dried fruit from the Arabian market, which turned out to be much better biking food than chocolate croissants. Several other bikers were passing over the mountains and we gave our nods of camaraderie.
For every town there was a climb and then descent. The cliff in the distance is a famous climb between Cassis and La Ciotat, but I took a less steep route.
The towns sit on the water nestled between the mountains. The water is clear, but not the crystal blue of the Caribbean -- more of a deep, salty, turquoise-emerald. This is Cassis:
I drafted a cyclist on a LOOK and was proud to ride with a Frenchie. He kept looking back and slowed a bit when we were climbing a mountain, though we didn't exchange a word until we reached the top. Even then, we just said "bonjour." I love bike culture -- the instant acceptance and value of teamwork.
I arrived at the house of Martine and Bruno Fages just past Toulon. They are family friends of the Pelosi/Nolan family for over 30 years, when Ellie's uncle studied abroad in France as a child. Their house is 400 years old and they have done a fabulous job modernizing it.
Martine and Bruno love food and are avid cooks. Martine made a lovely several course dinner with aperitif, main plate, cheese plate, and dessert. It was luxurious, but she did it like it was nothing. She has internalized a true appreciation for food, hospitality, pleasure, relaxation, and conversation.
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1 comment:
pretty!
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